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Hyaluronic Acid, What is it?? And how can I tell which Skincare range is right one for my skin.

April 30, 2020

Hyaluronic Acid, What is it??  And how can I tell which Skincare range is right one for my skin.

 So most of you are wondering what is Hyaluronic Acid?

Hyaluronic acid is naturally present in our body and has a molecular weight of 4000 to 8,000,000 daltons. In cosmetics, there are different types of hyaluronic acid that can be used in cosmetic formulations. And they vary based on their molecular size and their effects can vary based on the molecular size that is indicated by its daltons. Hyaluronic is typically labelled as sodium hyaluronate (INCI = Sodium Hyaluronate) and thus doesn’t outline the different molecular sizes that a manufacturer is using. It is at the discretion of the brand to be transparent about the type of sodium hyaluronate it is using. Most brands cut corners to save on their bottom line. Another thing is that company's use very little of the ingredient due to the expensive cost of it, so instead they label it generically.  The problem with that is, it's probably why in the past you buy a product and you trial it out but get no results or very little change verse the amount of money you have laid out. There is so many types in relation to the molecular size which has different effects on the skin. If you want to find out which Hyaluronic Acid  skincare range has high concentration of active ingredients for your skin type then you need to ask your Dermal Therapist about the specifics so you get the right result you are looking for.  

The table below gives you a break down of the types of Hyaluronic Acid to make it easier for you:

Type of HA

Molecular weight (in Dalton)

kDA

Use

High molecular weight

>1.800.000

<1.800

–       works only for a short time

–       forms a moisturizing film on the skin surface

–       has anti-inflammatory effects

Middle molecular weight

1.000.000 to 1.800.000

1000 – 1800

–       is stored in the connective tissue of the skin

–       works long term

Low molecular weight

400.000 to 1.000.000

400 – 1000

–       works long term

–       is stored in the connective tissue of        the skin

–       has a lasting anti-wrinkle effect

S

100.000 to

400.000

100 – 400

–        Works in deeper levels of the skin

XS

<100.000

>100

–        Regenerating

 

 So your probably wondering they all look good right?  Well most people want the regenerating properties as obviously as you get older your skin takes longer to heal. 

The XS Hyaluronic Acid ingredient is Juliette Armand's preferred choice.  The best part about Juliette Armand products is they clinically tested what the human skin's maximum tolerance and absorption of the XS Hyaluronic Acid and then apply with other ingredients to make up their products.  This is one of the reasons why Beauty Bar Therapy became a stockist of Juliette Armand.  Most other brands label their products having key ingredients but virtually very little concentrations or use the cheapest Hyaluronic Acid that they can get there hands on in bulk.

Next time you are in at your beauty therapist treatment you should ask about what type of Hyaluronic Acid is in their products they use!! Most people don't know this, which brings me to ask the question is why? Why would you pay big dollars for something that might not even be working.  This is why people tend to head towards botox and fillers as they get sick of spending money and seeing very little results.  Here at Beauty Bar Therapy we are the experts in skin and have clinically tested natural products which will achieve results on all different types of skin. 

For further information you can visit the official site at www.juliettearmand.gr which is located in Greece.

Here is an example of one of Juliette Armands award winning best seller with the ingredients broken down to understand it clearer.

Skin Boosters

CHRONOS CREAM

ACTIVE INGREDIENTS: XS SODIUM HYALURONATE, MALUS DOMESTICA, EUK-134, KELIFLUO, DHEA, LIPOIC ACID, VITAMIN E, PHYTOSQUAL, SOYA ISOFLAVONES, JOJOBA OIL, ALISTIN

 

"XS" HYALURONIC ACID (LOW MOLECULAR WEIGHT)

At the opposite end of the scale, you'll find low molecular weight hyaluronic acid. In this case, the molecule is small (between 20 and 50 thousand daltons). Its extra-small size enables it to penetrate further into the epidermis, so it can revitalise the skin deep down.

Malus domestica is a liposomal preparation based on the stem cells of a rare Swiss apple. ... Epidermal stem cells replenish and maintain the balance of cells within the skin tissue and regenerate tissue damage. They act as a type of repair system for skin.

EUK-134™ is a mimetic of superoxide dismutase and catalase, forming an exceptionally rare self-regenerating molecule that scavenges superoxide free radicals, eliminates hydrogen peroxide and converts reactive oxygen species into water and oxygen. While it has been around for many years, very few products on the market do use this truly superb antioxidant which can regenerate itself to offer round-the-clock antioxidant support. The only issue with EUK-134™ is that it must not be used immediately with strong acids such as suspensions of Ascorbic Acid. Strong acids will completely destroy EUK-134™ which is based on manganese. 

Topical DHEA tends to improve skin brightness, to counteract the papery appearance of skin and epidermal atrophy, a characteristic feature of hormone-related skin aging. Topical DHEA could also act on skin process related to wrinkles.

Alpha Lipoic Acid is an enzyme that, when applied topically on skin, appears to be a very good antioxidant. Lipoic Acid is a water- and fat-soluble antioxidant capable of regenerating other antioxidants, such as vitamins C and E. It is also believed to exert numerous soothing effects.

Vitamin E is a powerful antioxidant that may be effective at reducing UV damage in skin. And vitamin E applied topically may help nourish and protect your skin from damage caused by free radicals.

PHYTOSQUAL - Hydrogenated natural squalene of vegetable origin (ex Olea europea L., i.e. olive). Acts as an emollient and lubricant. It is an oily component used alternatively to mineral oil. It is non-comedogenic and non-achantotic. It is a clear, colorless and odorless liquid which is soluble in lipidic systems. Used in o/w and w/o emulsions, in oils, ointments and lipidic gels.

Soya isoflavones are used today in skin care as well. Skin becomes drier and thinner in response to the decrease in hormone concentration during menopause; this can increase the appearance of wrinkles and loss of collagen. Soya isoflavones in your skin care regimen can reduce this effect on the skin.

Jojoba oil has anti-inflammatory properties which help to tame chaffing and chapping, reduce redness caused by drying, ease the effects of eczema and rosacea, and keep skin calm and comfortable. The Vitamin E and B-complex vitamins in the Jojoba oil help in skin repair and damage control.

Alistin (INCI name: DECARBOXYCARNOSINE HCL) is a nature identical peptide with broad-spectrum activity. It is a 3-in-1 active ingredient, at the same time a major anti-glycation active, an antioxidant, and a stimulator of skin cell metabolism.

 


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